I’m sure everyone by now must be aware of the multiple groups, pages, places that you can go to connect with others via various platforms on Facebook, Instagram, Tik Tok, etc. We can find like minded people in many of them that have the same hobbies, interests, even passions as we do. If you like eating pineapple out of a can while standing on your head, I’m sure you can find a group full of like-minded people who love doing just that. It is a great feeling to belong and to be a part of a community.
These things are wonderful. But…. We need to use our heads people… It seems that everyone on the internet can be a self-proclaimed professional. After all, who is there to check us? That would require researching on our own, and unfortunately for a lot of people, that’s just not going to happen. It’s very easy now to stand on our soap boxes and proclaim x, y and z and for the most part, the masses eat it up. It is up to us, the ones reading this, the ones willing to put in the work, to use our heads and make sure that the advice given is up to par.
I have seen a LOT of scary things lately. Misinformation that is just parroted along, from this group to that group without regard to the damage it could do to the outside world, the people who take their advice to heart. I receive a lot of messages from very upset clients who are devastated as how horrible of a reptile parent they feel like they are after meeting some of these people, even though they are amazing reptile parents. Your Bearded Dragon does not require an 8’ x 8’ x 8’ cage any more than it only requires 2 bugs per day. You are not a terrible parent for having your animal in a smaller cage. You are also not a terrible parent for giving it a larger cage if you want. You do not have to be exact on your percentages for calcium to phosphorous, or how many grams of multivitamins your animal is getting. You are not a bad parent if you just sprinkle instead of measuring.
The time is now, everyone, for us to start using our heads. Does this make sense what these people are saying? Does what they are preaching to the choir sound absolutely absurd? Does their research start with “well the animals in the wild” when they are talking about an animal that has been domesticated for well over 40 years and aspirates drinking water out of a puddle? Are they even the same animals anymore? Animal care is about 70% learning from real, true professionals (with actual experience, none of this “well I’ve owned them for a year so I know all”) and about 30% using our heads and making decisions based on our own rational judgement (yes, I made those numbers up…using my head...). If something does not seem to be working for you, by all means, tweak things to fit your animal. If your animal is in good health after your tweaking… then guess what? It works. Not everything is black and white, there are many, many different shades of grey throughout. Animal care is absolutely an ever-changing field of study. We learn new things every day! But please, I beg you, use your heads.
Social media is definitely both a blessing and a curse. We are in a time that we can learn so much, but also in a time where it’s easy to be duped by a lot of misinformation. Always do your own research. And if you feel like a terrible reptile parent due to these groups/people, please don’t hesitate to reach out. I’m sure you’re doing just fine and I won’t be the first to tell you that. Hugs.
Let us know your thoughts in the comments below! Lets keep it clean!
]]>Want to save a little money and do your own fecal tests? Curious how it's done and just want to learn? In these trying times, it's great to be able to save a little money when you can, not to mention it's a great way to keep an eye on your pets health year round and stop problems before they start!
Want to save a little money and do your own fecal tests? Curious how it's done and just want to learn? In these trying times, it's great to be able to save a little money when you can, not to mention it's a great way to keep an eye on your pets health year round and stop problems before they start! While we always suggest taking your findings to your vet for their opinion, doing your own fecal is super easy and very important to keep track of the health of your scaly babies. We will go over the process step by step below. Supplies needed: |
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Remove the inner piece of the fecal float test kit and press it into the fecal sample until the end is full. | |
Place insert back inside the test container. | |
Locate the fill line on the side and add fecal float solution to the level of the line on the side of the container. | |
Using your fingers, agitate the insert piece for approximately 30 seconds by twisting it side to side in a back and forth motion until the fecal matter is mixed well with the solution. | |
Fill insert with additional fecal solution until it gets to the top. | |
Carefully add just enough solution to form a meniscus on top without allowing it to over flow. | |
Gently place the slide cover slip on top of the insert and let it sit for approximately 12 to 15 minutes. | |
After the time is up, gently lift the slide cover slip off, holding it level with the slide and place on the top in the center of the slide. Be sure that a drop of the solution stays on the cover slip to seal it to the slide. |
Note: The microscope requires 2 AA Batteries - Install with + end pointing down. **Our microscope may vary from yours, please read instructions specific to your microscope.
Remove the metal clip from the portable microscope by pulling straight up. This way you will be able to move your slide around on the base without disturbing the cover slip. | |
Place the slide on the microscope base. Be sure to add two AA batteries to your microscope with the postitive side facing downward. |
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Turn on the light and extend the zoom all the way up to 100x. Place the microscope on the stand with the zoom facing forward, then look inside turning the wheel until it is focused. Once focused, slowly move the slide side to side and up and down, stopping briefly each time to inspect the view. |
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Since this isn't the best quality microscope in the world, a single coccidia ova can be very difficult to identfy. Single pinworm ova are much bigger and will be visible by themselves. If your dragon does happen to have a concernable amount of coccida, you will be able to see it in high quantities that will most likely require medication. So if you can see them, you should go to a vet or consult with someone knowlegable enough to make a safe recommendation. |
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This view contains a high amount of coccidia with a pinworm ova in the top right hand corner. With this microscope, they will look half this size so one coccidia may not be easily recognizable. A large amount of coccidia will be characterized by many very small and consistenly shaped circles with dots in them. Rule of thumb for medicating your dragon... If there are more ova than you can count in one view of the slide, your dragon should be medicated. If you can count them easily and they are very sparsely placed all over the slide, there is no need to medicate. |
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Download the Parasite Identification Chart here | |
Medications | Fenbendazole (Panacur) is used to treat pinworms, roundworms and hookworms, it is very mild and can be used as a preventative twice a year. |
Sulfadimethoxine (Albon) is used to treat coccidia, it is fairly harsh and should only be used if needed. | |
Toltrazuril is a NEW, milder treatment for coccidia and can be used as a preventative. | |
Most of these medications are available at www.beardeddragon.co / www.reptilesupplies.co |
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It is also recommended to test your feeders regularly for parasites. |
It's baby season! Now is the time of baby beardies aplenty! You may have been researching for a while or just decided to take the plunge and purchase your first baby bearded dragon! Or maybe you've just always been curious as to why beardies cost what they cost. There are many factors that go into pricing bearded dragons and we will go over them here!
It's baby season! Now is the time of baby beardies aplenty! You may have been researching for a while or just decided to take the plunge and purchase your first baby bearded dragon! Or maybe you've just always been curious as to why beardies cost what they cost. There are many factors that go into pricing bearded dragons and we will go over them here!
So what does it cost to raise a bearded dragon anyway? First off, people are constantly misinformed about what and how much to feed bearded dragons. Pet store personnel are rarely trained to give out the correct information and almost never do the research to learn the proper information. Sometimes the wholesalers at reptile shows will tell you anything to sell an animal so if it doesn't sound right, it probably isn't. Not to get off subject, but I'm going to say it right up front. Dragons need to be fed every day, as much as they can eat, as often as recommended for their age. Please do not believe anyone that tells you to feed them 12 crickets per week, or day for that matter. A growing dragon will have an unsatiable appetite and be able to eat 100 crickets per feeding.
Once bearded dragons are full grown adults, the cost to maintain housing and feeding them is relatively low. At different stages of growth, their eating habits gradually change to less often in frequency. That doesn't mean they are eating less, amount wise.
First take a look a buying a baby dragon that is only 6 weeks old. A breeder will have spent a minimum of $60 on food costs alone to feed it for its first 42 days of life. This doesn't even include the overhead costs of heating, lighting and providing a safe home. Most babies aren't even sold until they are two to three months old and at that point have cost the breeder approximately $80-120 to feed depending on the type of insects and quality of produce. So remember when you are shopping for a dragon, any price tag below $150 is fairly conservative. This is estimating crickets with an average cost of .013 each, which is way way less than most people pay. Keep in mind this is JUST the feeding costs of the baby bearded dragon you are purchasing from a reputable breeder. This is not including housing, electric, UVB bulbs, or the YEARS of working with different lineages. The amount of money and time that breeders invest in parent animals will reflect in the baby's pricing as well. A baby bearded dragon can easily cost from $200-1500 or more depending on all of these factors.
Now you need a place to keep your dragon, either a large tank or critter cage is commonly used or you buy or build your own with front sliding doors. Either way, you're going to spend from $200 to $300 easily. Then you add your lighting and fixtures, maybe a heat source and you spend another $75 to $150. Now you need cage furniture, substrate, misc supplies, supplements, bug keepers, what else? At least another $50 or so. It's really no so bad once you have everything because you only need to replace your uv lights every 6 months to a year and refill your supplements about that often too. So you spend between $325 and $500 getting everything, a few extras and some shipping costs. Not that bad.
So you're all set and now you just need to buy food on a regular basis. Greens are cheap and last a couple weeks but a baby doesn't eat much of them anyway. All they do is eat, bask and poop, 24 - 7 for the first 7 to 10 months and all you want is a happy, healthy dragon. Most people find themselves going to the local pet store and buying 50 to 100 crickets at a time, spending $10 to $20. This might feed a young baby for two or three days but once they become juvies it will only last a day or two. Some pet stores will sell boxes of crickets of 1000 for $30 to $35 or the best way to go is orderig them online and having them delivered to your door for about the same price. If you're lucky, a thousand crickets will last a month but it's highly unlikely. Figure you'll have to replenish every two to three weeks at a cost of $50 to $60 per month. Not bad if you average it out at $2 a day to feed your baby.
Most dragons will consume mass quantities at this rate for up to a year or more, some start to slow their eating habits at about 9 or 10 months of age or when the weather begins to cool down. Regardless, your still talking approximately $600 to feed your dragon the first year! So when it's all said and done, you can easily drop $1000 total cash money, just on the basics.
So next time you see a seemingly expensive price tag on an adult dragon, or wonder why babies cost so much, think of the investment involved in making that cute little bugger available.
Good News, the second year isn't nearly as bad!
So you have had your dragon now for 4 to 6 months and everything is going great. You have memorized all the greens with high calcium to phosphorus ratios and make amazingly healthy, colorful salads that your dragon gobbles up. All your phobias about bugs are a thing of the past, you've learned to hate crickets, you're dubia colony is wonderful and you don't think twice about grabbing a superworm to hand feed your favorite family member. It amazes you how much food that guy or girl can devour on a daily basis, and you wonder over how much he or she has grown since the day you brought him or her home. It's hard to imagine things being any different than they are, you are so used to the routine. Remember at about four months of age when the poops first started being as big as a small dogs? It's truly amazing how much food a dragon can put away, literally hundreds of bugs per week. We feel good about this because we know our animals are healthy and full of life, after all, if a dragon stops eating, that's the first sign that something is wrong. |
Then sometime between 8 months to a year, you go to offer the daily meal and you get the little lick and maybe a turned head. So, you follow the head with that poor bug wiggling on the end of the tongs, then do a circular motion in front of your dragon's nose, and you get the closed eyes like "no thank you". Seems kind of weird but no big deal, it happens on occasion, maybe during a shed or off day, he'll eat tomorrow. Tomorrow comes and you toss in a worm, it crawls away, under something out of sight. Lazy dragon, I should have never spoiled him with the hand feeding, he won't even go after his own food. You dig it out and put it right in front of him... he doesn't even acknowledge it or you. So he doesn't eat another day, fine, he'll come around. Day three, you dig out some freshly shed super worms all nice and bright white, you drop one in front of him and bam, he gobbles it up. Finally, success, you offer another... ... here we go again. He doesn't even look at it, plays completely dumb and blind. You do all the normal things to get him interested and he acts like you don't even exist. This has to be temporary, it's just not like him, he'll come around. |
It's been a month, maybe six weeks and that tub of supers you bought 2 months ago is still crawling with at least three quarters of what you started with. Maybe something is wrong? Could he be sick, does he have parasites? He seems fine, maybe a little lazier than normal but no apparent signs of illness or weight loss. This is when you figure someone else might know or have some experience, surely others have had this experience. Time to post a question on beardeddragon.org or some random Facebook group and see what the others have to say. Now you have to prove to the world you have the right temps, the correct substrate, the best lighting on the planet, the distance is some algebraic formula of time travel to mars on a rainy day in Pittsburgh, and you feed all the perfect feeders and acceptable greens. You finally convince the distraught moderator that everything meets to the absolute exact specifications of the acceptable artificial environment standards of the world, but you get no straight answer. Nothing reasonable, no common sense, you feel judged and still have no real answers. So you haul him off to the vet, worried to death that your dragon is riddled with coccidia or something worse, just to find out he has a couple of pinworms and absolutely nothing is wrong. Great, maybe they were right, maybe it is just a phase. |
Now what? Well nothing, that's what. Everything is fine, it's normal, it's maturity. Sub adult dragons slow down fairly quick, sometimes it's more drastic, others may be more gradual. It also depends on the time of year and if it begins to cool down, but for the most part, it usually happens just before or around a year of age. Some dragons will eat just a little bit every day, but nowhere near as much as they did as youngsters. Other dragons will not eat at all for a couple to a few days, then have a decent sized meal, only eating two or three times per week. This is when a lot of people get their second dragon. We feel comfort in feeding them constantly and don't feel like we are taking good care of them if we don't. This is all just psychological human nature; we need to take care of things. It's hard to get used to raising animals that are different than us or dogs and cats. When an animal doesn't need to create body heat, its metabolism is more efficient, they learn to conserve and expend only as needed. That's another reason why they stop chasing food, they learn quickly that the bugs are mobile and will eventually come to them. |
So the sub adult dragon is on its way to being an adult, and it needs to slow down or it will end up as big as an alligator if it doesn't. They still never stop growing, they just grow a small fraction of what they did as juvies, and their metabolisms have to regulate the whole deal. So now all they need to do is maintain, and all ectotherms have very conservative metabolisms. Of course they rely on the temperatures of their environment so expect their metabolisms to change with the seasons. Once your dragon is a sub adult, it can brumate at any age or when it starts to cool down in the fall or winter months. At this time, the days are short and a dragon can easily sense even a five degree drop in the ambient temps. Many will follow cue and start taking long naps, basking less, eating less and less, then eventually go into a long slumber over the next couple months. About the time the days start getting longer, some will begin to wake up, their hormones will spike after their long rejuvenating nap and they will wake up as a sexually mature adult. This is when they all, males and females, become restless and behaving like irresponsible teenagers. All they have on their mind is one thing, that three letter word, breeding! The males will black beard, head bob and arm stomp, I've even seen them go as far as, well you know, all by themselves wiggling in their cage. The females are no better! The dominant girls darken their beards too, they mimic the males by head bobbing the same way and they will even mount the other females in an attempt to trick them into cycling infertile eggs. Springtime brings all kinds of craziness to beardies and all we can do is watch and wait. Females eat like mad, preparing for eggs, males won't eat a thing, too worried about finding a female, this can last a few months. Finally, summer arrives and things start to calm down, the boys begin to eat better and gain some weight back. The girls may slow down and not be so greedy now, the hormones level out and they come back to their senses. Fall can go either way but is usually smooth sailing until the cool days start to come again. The second year is like a roller coaster ride, be glad its over. |
Really, the first couple years are the most drastic, or maybe we just get used to them and begin to understand better. At least it's not the same ole thing every day, we get a seasonally moody pet and a break in the winter. This is where multiples come in handy, it really isn't that much more to feed two or three dragons than it is to feed one, plus it's always fun to get another baby. At least if you have more than one, they will most likely be on different brumation schedules so you never have to do without. Just remember, every baby has to grow up one day, and when it does, don't be too worried when it starts to slow down. Adults are truly awesome and we miss them when they are dormant, but it helps them live longer healthy lives and does wonders for their immune system and well being. If you are ever in doubt, the best way to tell if a dragon is sick is by weighing it regularly. A sick dragon will lose weight rapidly while a dormant dragon can go months without food and barely lose a few grams. You know your animal better than anyone, so if you sense something is wrong, you're probably right, just trust your instincts and follow your intuitions. |
Lets face it, it's Springtime! Now is the time for your beardies to start laying infertile eggs or for you to make the decision on whether to breed or not. In either case, we receive a lot of requests for help! Read on to figure out what to do now!
]]>First, you must provide a place for her to dig and lay her eggs. Bearded dragons like to tunnel and need at least 5 to 6 inches of sand to dig in. Get a 50lb bag of play sand from Home Depot or Lowes and pour it in a 50 to 60 quart bin, then wet it enough to hold its shape, mixing the water in thoroughly, and then pack it down with your hand. This will allow her to dig a tunnel without caving in. On top of the bin, get a clamp light or put a screen across the top to support a dome light to keep her warm while she is digging.
Warning: if you don't provide a proper laying area for your dragon, eggs could burst inside her or become bound, which is almost always 100% fatal unless surgically removed! Do not delay your female from laying for any reason, she is counting on you to provide her with the necessary tools to do her job quickly and comfortably!
Infertile eggs are usually dented and slightly yellow in color. See image below.
Fertile eggs are full, not dented, more white in color, and if you candle them with an led flashlight, you can see the vein circle (or what we call the "Cheerio" which is pinkish in color inside the egg. Infertile eggs can be disposed of. I would suggest freezing them first if you have any doubts.
This is a fertile egg!
This is a clutch of good eggs!
We have typically used the Hovabator incubators. They are inexpensive and easy to find. Your local feed store should have one in stock, or you can purchase them online. In an emergency, to keep fertile eggs at 80º to 85º temporarily, you can use a small storage bin, approximately 12" x 18" and 6" high with lid. Drill vent holes at each end of the container and on the sides. Place in a non-ventilated area where there are no breezes or air conditioning, on top of an under tank heater or heating pad with a towel on top. Be sure to use a thermometer inside the bin or a temp gun to check temps every hour until they are at a constant 82º to 84º. Towels can be put in between the bin and heating pad until the temps are stable. Cover the bin with a towel to hold in heat and help stabilize temps. |
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How to incubate fertile bearded dragon eggs | ||||||
Dig all the eggs out of the lay bin making sure you get them all, be thorough! Don't worry, it's OKAY to turn them, they haven't started developing yet! However, do not turn them after 1 week and do not handle before 4 or 5 weeks. After that, handle carefully! | ||||||
Find a container with lid about 2 inches deep that is at least 5 to 6 inches in width and drill a few vent holes in the sides close to the top, then fill half full with vermiculite. Make sure the vermiculite has NO fertilizer or plant food in it, these are TOXIC and will kill the eggs quickly! Add water to the vermiculite and mix it making sure all the material is evenly wet and clumps up easily. If you add too much water, drain off the excess and you should be good to go. Pat it down in the container to make sure it is filled evenly with no voids and so that it is even across the top. | ||||||
In an emergency, you can use damp paper towels in a food storage container to keep the eggs good. Wet the paper towels and squeeze out the excess water, clump them up in the bottom of the container and place the eggs so they are surrounded by paper towel, then put a couple of layers on top to hold in the moisture. Place the lid on the container, but make sure it has ventilation holes for air! Store the container at 80º to 85º temps, do not allow to get too cold or too hot! | ||||||
Find a small tool to help you dig divots for each egg, I like using a big sharpie marker or the end of a wooden spoon. You can use your finger as well. Round out a small divot about the size of each egg and place the eggs in it burying them about halfway. Use your fingers to pack the vermiculite around them so they are securely in their hole. Do this with each egg, spacing them apart at least 3/8" to 1/2" so they have a little bit of room to grow. They will triple or quadruple in size by the time they hatch.
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With calcium being the most abundant mineral in our bodies, we also need to pay attention to some of the other things found in our bodies, the most abundant molecules in all living organisms... H20. | |
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You expect everyone to know that water is one of the most vital components for life to exist as we know it. As most do know this, in contrary, most people do not know why it is so essential or understand all the roles water plays in vitality. Our bodies are about sixty percent water with most animals being close to the same. As we are all living organisms with cellular functions and metabolisms, our bodies could not carry out all the necessary functions without water. Bearded dragons really aren't that much different other than they don't regulate their own body temperatures and they don't sweat to do this. Luckily, they have adapted to living in the hot, dry deserts so their bodies are super efficient with the water they do get. Since bearded dragons are cold blooded, they can speed up their metabolism by raising their body temps by basking in the sun or slow it down by lowering their body temps when hiding from the sun. They can regulate their temps by only raising it when its necessary which really conserves a lot of water. Bearded dragons also have very large livers in relation to the size of their other organs and this also helps them be more efficient when filtering out toxins in their systems. When it comes to expelling those toxins, instead of urinating, they have a urate which is basically the same thing without the excess fluid. That's why they go to the bathroom in two different colors, the white part is essentially the "pee" in concentrated form. Most bearded dragons will not drink from a standing dish of water. Since they cannot see it in the dish, they probably won't even realize it's there unless they figure it out by accident. If you do put a dish of water in for them, make it a very shallow dish and put some greens in the water so that they can see it and know something is there. They will recognize water if they see you pour or squirt it in the dish, you can also stir it with your finger to get their attention or plop them in the middle of it. If you put a larger water dish in their cage, it could add too much humidity to the air and you will probably find your dragon laying in it instead of drinking from it and doing that excessively can lead to upper respiratory and fungal infections. Baby bearded dragons have a much smaller body mass that doesn't hold that much water in the first place. Combine their frequent eating, basking in higher heats to metabolize their food, and you can get a dehydrated little beardie fast. A great way to combat this is to offer them water once or twice a day. A dropper works great or a small squeeze bottle that holds more liquid is what I prefer to use. It's amazing how much a very small dragon will drink at one time, I've seen a ten gram baby drink up to three cc's at once. Some people like to mist their dragons but it may not provide enough water and either run off or evaporate. Another great way to keep them hydrated is a nice soak in the bath. With babies, this can also be somewhat of a shock to them so you have to be sneaky. First make the water close to the same temp as their body, or around room temperature, slightly warm to the touch. If you have a clear pyrex container or shallow dish that is transparent, put a half inch of water in it. Beardies don't see anything that is clear or transparent so chances are, they will hardly know you've put them in the water. If they start to freak out, hold them in your hand in the water. If they like it, let them play or swim around and enjoy the water until it gets cool or they're ready to come out. Never leave them unattended, just like human babies! Most bigger dragons, juvies, sub adults and adults enjoy their regular bath time. Many dragons look forward to it so they can get a nice drink if they need it before they do their bathing. For many adult dragons, bath time means bathroom time, it's an easy and convenient way for your dragon to go poop without having to clean the cage. A nice warm bath not only helps keep dragons hydrated, it can be a soothing aid when shedding, or a gentle helper if a dragon becomes some what impacted. Best of all, who likes a stinky dragon? It keeps them clean too! Baths are good hygiene and cleanliness can be a preventative for most of the parasites that dragons are susceptible to. Two or three times a week is a good schedule and is always fun. Another way to add water to their intake is by misting their greens or insects. Adding water to their salad will help keep it fresh longer but misting isn't really enough unless it is going to be eaten immediately. It is better to drench their salad with water so that the greens are sitting in a small pool, this will last much longer than a misting. As far as misting crickets, probably more trouble than its worth. Dipping Black Soldier Fly Larvae in water is a great way to clean them before feeding, they are a little dry in the first place and benefit from the added moisture. Roaches are difficult to dust with powder calcium so spraying them is a good trick for getting the powder calcium to stick. Or, depending on the calcium you use, the ultra fine calcium powder mixes well with water for coating insects or veggies very nicely. Not all dragons are the same and not all of them will prefer to drink their water the same way. I find it more useful to try to teach them to drink from the dropper in case they need to be hand fed for some reason or if they get sick. It's also a good way to add nutrients to their diet if you want to mix small amounts of calcium, b vitamins, acidophilus or electrolytes to it. It's nice to know they are getting some of their supplements because most dragons probably don't get as much as they should. At least by offering it often and seeing them drink, you have one less thing to worry about. Hydration is not only essential to health, it can prevent serious issues that build up over time. |
Beardeddragon.co has the expertise and the selection to back up our wish of “Making Dragons Better” Here are a few tips for things to pay attention to when caring for your new lizard friend.
These are just a few things to make note of as a new dragon owner. Beardeddragon.co has what you need to make it an easy and enjoyable process. Check out the website or contact us with questions. We can service your reptile needs anywhere in the country and are slowly expanding to be available in the rest of the world. Take advantage of our expertise today!
]]>A lot of people get the syringe and immediately think the 0.1 cc is the same as .01 cc, but the difference is 10x more if you confuse 0.1 for 0.01, so don't let the decimal point confuse you. This is why most dosage charts are provided with medications and the 0 is always listed before the . in doses less than 0.1 cc |
If your 200 gram dragon needs medication at .02 cc per 100 grams of body weight, then the total amount would be 0.04 cc or the little line before the 0.05 on the syringe. This is a VERY SMALL amount, so you can see how big the difference would be if you accidently filled the syringe to 0.4 cc. |
If you ever have any questions about medication dosages, it not going to hurt if you wait until you are 100% sure. |
1. Electrolytes or Electrolyte Powder - use to hydrate orally when off food
2. Saline for Injection, Dextrose or Lactated Ringers Solution* - use to hydrate by injection when off food
3. Oral & Injection Syringes - for dosing meds or supplements and hand feeding
4. Baytril Suspension*- for treating bacterial infections, respiratory infections, mouth rot, internal eye infections
5. Metronidazole Suspension* - for treating protozoal infections, babies off food after stress
6. Toltrazuril Suspension - eliminates coccidia gently / Panacur - gentle dewormer for eliminating pinworms (oxyurid)
7. Liquid Calcium Gluconate or Dissolvable Calcium Lactate or Lactate Gluconate with Magnesium - for calcium deficiencies, nervous system **
8. D3 Liquid Drops - severe calcium deficiencies, start with D3 several days before administering calcium!
9. Terramycin - external eye infections from sand or injury **
10. Probiotic Powder, Acidophilus Liquid or Bene Bac Powder - must give with antibiotics to prevent secondary infections, boosts immune **
11. Silymarin Milk Thistle and/or Acetylcysteine - protects the liver, cleanses the system & liver after medicating, AC as a mucolytic treatment
12. Serrapeptase - natural anti-inflammatory, promotes healing & cardiovascular health, helps immune & calcium absorption
13. Black Cherry Concentrate - cleansing properties, antioxidants, effective treatment for gout, prevents uric acid crystals
14. B-Complex or B-12 - promotes energy metabolism, neurological system health, water soluable vitamin
15. Metacam / Meloxicam* - NSAIDS, anti-inflammatory pain releiver, do not use with renal insufficiency
16. Fortaz / Cetazidime* - antibiotic injection for treatment of severe upper and lower respiratory tract infections, other bacterial infections
17. Sorbitol / Lactulose - gentle laxitives for impaction or to break up compacted feces
18. Psyllium Powder - bulk forming fiber for cleansing bowels, good to use after anti-parasitic treatments or with animals who won't eat greens **
19. Fecal Float Kit w/ Microscope & Slides - for doing your own fecal float exams **
20. Chlorhexidine Gluconate or Povidone Iodine - antiseptic, anti-bacterial for topical treatment of wounds **
21. Silver Antibacterial Cream - the only antibacterial ointment that should be used on reptiles
* Rx only
You can buy almost everything on this list for less than a visit to the vet, so it will pay for itself if you only have to use one thing once. Most of the time you can't even get your animal to a vet fast enough and you discover the problem in the evening or on a weekend, so by the time you get to a vet it can be too late. Being prepared and able to treat your animal in a timely manner can make all the difference in the world, finding the info and how to treat is easy, but finding the right stuff to treat it with is another story. Stay tuned for a list of symptoms and signs to tell when your animal may be sick!
With all the hype and hysteria recently with regards to the Coronavirus, we though it might be a good idea to touch base on things to be aware of or prepare for in the case of National Epidemics or Disasters. For those of us in the Southeast, hurricane season is rapidly approaching, so it’s time to get a plan together, think ahead so you are not left in a bad position in the time of an emergency.
So first thing, lets get right to it and discuss the coronavirus. As of right now, there are no known cases of humans transmitting the virus to our pets, yes, a dog was found as a weak positive in China recently, however that test had not determined whether the dog tested positive for it merely for being in the vicinity of the affected owner or if he was really infected. So until the facts come in more, we will leave it at that.
What you do need to concern yourself with, is making sure that you have supplies stocked up, so that in case of a quarantine, illness, or lets face it, just having things sold out at the stores for the next few weeks until the hysteria dies down and you can get your needed supplies again (not a bad idea to do for yourself).
First and foremost. Food. Your pets need to be fed. You need to have a plan in place for someone to care for your animal in case of illness, or you need to make sure to have enough food stocked up so that if you are unable to get to the store for a few weeks, your babies don’t starve. Greens and veggies will keep for short amounts of time in the fridge, however it may be a good idea to stock up on dry foods that can be made in case those run out. Repashy is an excellent option for this. They have made excellent formulas for not only carnivores, but omnivores and herbivores as well. It will keep for a long period of time, and if you can boil water, you can make up a batch of food for your baby.
Check your insect stock! Go ahead and buy some bulk worms, or crickets. They are easy enough to care for, and will last a while as long as cared for properly.
Double check your medicine, first aid kits, and supplements. Be sure to have some stock set aside, the last thing you want to worry about is being sick and running out of calcium powder, multivitamin, or having your baby come down with something and not having treatments available to you. Check your bulbs, be sure to have a few extra just in case.
HURRICANES OR OTHER NATURAL DISASTERS
I cannot stress to you enough the worry that comes when you’re staring at a Category 5 hurricane coming directly towards you and trying to figure out how to keep your family safe. You board your house, you stock up on food and you prepare to evacuate if necessary. But what about the animals? Best to get an emergency kit prepared ahead of time to make things super seamless in times of an emergency. This does not only apply to Hurricanes…Fires, damage from earthquakes, etc, this all applies.
You need a travel container. If you need to evacuate, you want to take your reptiles with you. So you need somewhere to put them. Depending on size, there are plenty of Sterlite containers that will work for you, be sure to add ventilation and make it size appropriate for your reptile. Remember this is for traveling, so you really don’t need a mansion sized container. This is to get from point A to point B safely and quickly.
Temporary Housing is a must. If you evacuate, you need to have a temporary home to place your animal in as you cannot be sure how long until you can safely get back to an area. Sterlite containers again work wonders as a temporary home. These can be larger. You can clamp a Mercury Vapor Bulb securely to them for light and UVB in one and your baby is all set up in their temporary home.
Repashy foods are absolutely the way to go for emergency situations where you cannot get to fresh fruits/veggies/greens. As long as you can boil water, you can make up some food for your baby.
Don’t forget the water. Not only will you need it for yourselves, but your reptilian babies will need fresh water as well.
Supplements and first aid kits will be crucial as well. Make sure those are stocked with unexpired items and you are good to go!
LASTLY…..STOP WORRYING!
Ok, so now you are stocked up. You’ve got your reserves, you have a plan. You’ve informed your friends and family what is to be done with regard to your pets in the case of an emergency. Now relax! There is nothing more freeing than knowing you’ve got everything handled. Take your vitamins, get your rest, get a massage. You are good to go and knowing your pets will be taken care of in the case of an emergency should help take some of the stress off of these extremely trying situations.
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As your go-to online reptile store, BeardedDragon.co is a website that is not only carries exactly what you need but what you didn’t know you couldn’t live without. Making the decision to care for a reptile is a smart choice, knowing where to get the best price on supplies and accessories is genius. Visit our Lizard wear page and check out the latest in fashion for your “beardie”. We offer a variety of hats, harnesses and bandanas. You can also purchase a fashionable twist and go carrier for your reptile companion. It folds down flat for easy storage and comes in small, medium and large.
We also carry a large variety of first aid equipment for your reptiles. It’s especially important to keep certain things on hand, especially if you are a first-time bearded dragon or other reptile owner. We offer products like natural skin moisturizer and shedding treatment, ointments, antiseptics and a first aid kit just for reptiles! This kit is part of what makes our online reptile store stand out from the rest.
If these highlights haven’t convinced you that BeardedDragon.co is the online reptile store for you then let me tell you about our supplements. We offer calcium powder supplements and liquid calcium that will cover bearded dragons, geckos, iguanas and all pet lizards. We have probiotics and other vitamin supplements that will cover daily or therapeutic use.
Refer back to the home page and take a tour of everything we have to offer. Let our online reptile store be your first stop for all your reptile requirements!
]]>How much and how often should a bearded dragon be fed?
Young bearded dragons grow very quickly and need to be fed a high protein diet consisting of live feeders two or three times per day for the first year. To instill good habits, it is best to feed greens first, in the morning, then follow with live insects such as crickets, Phoenix worms, roaches, horn worms or silk worms. Feed them as much as they will eat in a 10 to 15 minute time period, then wait 10 minutes and offer a couple more.
What size crickets should I feed my baby bearded dragon?
Baby bearded dragons need to be fed baby crickets. Pet stores usually sell "small" sized crickets which are in the 3/8" to 1/2" range, this size is just right for bearded dragons that are 6" to 8" long. When your dragon is over 2 months old, around 9" to 10" long, you can start feeding 1/2" to 5/8" crickets. The general rule of thumb is to feed crickets that are the same length or smaller than the space between your dragons eyes. Never feed adult or winged crickets to a dragon under 12" long to be safe.
Can I feed my bearded dragon bugs from outside?
No, never feed bugs or yard lizards from outside. Insects from outside could be toxic or be full of harmful parasites. Live feeders from farms are raised in a controlled environment that limits their exposure to pesitcides and harmful bacteria. They are also fed a more nutritious diet meant just for feeding pet reptiles.
Do bearded dragons need water?
Yes, keeping your bearded dragon hydrated is very important, especailly if you have a baby dragon. Baby dragons can easily get dehydrated due to their tiny body mass and can become lethargic. A water dish can be used, but it is best to offer water from a dropper daily and give shallow baths a couple times per week. Water can also be put on greens to keep them fresh longer and provide extra moisture.
What kind of vitamins should I give my bearded dragon?
If your dragon is fed a large variety of live feeders and different greens, additional vitamin supplements can be given less often. Many people prefer to use Rep cal Herptivite powder by dusting two feedings of insects per week, but many dragons refuse to eat when this is done. We offer a liquid multi vitamin supplement that is safe to use because the Vitamin A is in the form of pro vitamin A caretenoids and there is less risk of toxic levels building up. As with all vitamins, feeding in the proper balance is essential to their effectiveness. Our liquid multi can be watered down and given directly, injected into feeders, or squirt on salads.
Should I use calcium with or without D3 for my bearded dragon?
Calcium should be used daily for growing dragons for the first year and whether it contains D3 or not depends on the type of UVB bulb you use. If you are using a 2 light system with one bulb for heat and a Reptisun 10 linear fluorescent for UVB, calcium with D3 is recommended. If you are using a single mercury vapor bulb with UVB and heat in one, then calcium without D3 is recommended. Even when using a mercury vapor bulb, some D3 supplementation is necessary for growing or gravid dragons.
How much calcium does a bearded dragon need?
Veterinarians recommend 23mg of absorbable calcium per 100 grams of body weight for all reptiles. It is important to understand the different types of calcium and how they are used by the body because not all types of calcium are readily metabolized. Powder calcium carbonate has very little bioavailability and serves a better purpose as a phosphorus binder when used for dusting live feeders. The exoskeleton of most insects is extremely high in phosphorus which binds well to calcium carbonate in the digestive system to get excreted in the feces. Feeding greens with at least double the amount of calcium than phosphorus in them is a great natural source of available calcium, but the only way to know your dragon is getting enough is by giving a measured dosage at regular intervals. Growing dragons from babies to 18 months of age should get the recommended daily dose of calcium every day, gravid females need three to four times the daily dose during gestation and fully grown adult males should get at least four doses per week while actively eating.
How important is D3 and UVB lighting for bearded dragons?
Calcium is the second most abundant element in all living organisms bodies next to water, but whether that calcium gets used by the body depends on the levels of D3 present. The main biologic function of D3 is to maintain normal blood levels of Calcium and Phosphorus, but it also modulates neuromuscular function and aids in new cell growth. D3 is made in the skin when ultra violet (UVB) light is present at wavelengths between 270 - 300 nm, peaking between 295 - 297nm, with an index above a 3 and this is hard to replicate artificially with a light bulb.
What size cage does a bearded dragon need?
Baby bearded dragons actually prefer to be in a smaller cage for security, but they grow very quickly and will need a failry large cage for their permanent home. The smallest size recommended for a dragons permanent home is 18" wide by 36" long of floor space. It is also very important that the sides are not higher than 16" to 18", otherwise it will be difficult to reach the recommended bulb distances for proper UVB exposure. A good starter cage size is a 40 gallon breeder tank that can be divided for the first couple months.
What kind of bulbs should I use for my bearded dragons lights?
The brand and type of bulb you use for your bearded dragon can make all the difference in the world. Not every bulb is created equal and some can even be harmful to your dragon. When you go shopping, the only UVB fluorescent that is acceptable is the Zoo Med Reptisun 10 linear, NOT the compact fluorescent. We test bulbs annually using Solartech UV meters to check UVB output and index, and so far Zilla and Exo Terra bulbs are not sufficient for use with bearded dragons. Remember, the Reptisun must be span the entire cage for constant exposure at a distance of 8" to 12" and must be replaced every 6 months.
The other type UVB bulbs that can be used are the Zoo Med Powersun and the Exo Terra Solar Glo mercury vapor bulbs. Always follow the recommended distances and replace yearly. To be safe, it is best to let mercury vapor bulbs burn in for at least 2 days before using with your dragon.
How long should I turn my bearded dragons lights on and off.
Bearded dragons are diurnal, which means they are active during daylight hours and sleep when its dark, so their lighting schedule should mimic the time the sun is up and down. During summer, the lights should be on for 14 hours and off for 10 hours, during spring and fall, they can be set to a 12 on and a 12 hour off schedule, for winter time, set them to be on at least 10 hours and off up to 14 hours. They do not need lighting at night (i.e. red lights).
What is the difference between a mercury vapor and a fluorescent?
There are two different lighting configurations that are used with bearded dragons and they depend on the type of bulb that is used. A mercury vapor bulb is a large flood type bulb that is capable of emitting UVB and heat at the same time. Mercury vapors are large bulbs that come in sizes from 100 watt to 275 watt that require a deep dome with ceramic base that is capable of withstanding higher amounts of heat and electricity. A fluorescent bulb is a long tube type bulb that does not create large amounts of heat, so it must be used with a separate spot bulb for basking. These bulbs come in sizes from 18" to 48" and emit lower levels of UVB, so it is important that a dragon gets constant exposure in every area of the cage.
What should the temperature be in my bearded dragons cage during the day and night?
Bearded dragons need varied temperature in order to regulate their metabolism, so it is important that they are able to heat up to temps over 100ºF during the day and cool down to temps as low as 75ºF at night. A bearded dragons cage should be setup with a basking area which would be similar to a rock with a beam of sunlight shining on it, and with a shady area to be able to cool down like if the dragon were to go under a small bush or ledge out of the sunlight. So during the day, one end of the tank should be 100ºF and the other end should be 80º to 85ºF. At night it is important that the dragon is able to slow down their metabolism to a resting state, so the temps should be from 70ºF to 80ºF. No lights or heat should be used at night unless the temps drop below 60ºF.
Do bearded dragons need to be warm at night?
Again, dragons do not need to be warm at night unless the temperatures are below 60º F. They need to slow down their metabolism to a resting rate, so no heat should be used at night.
What is the best kind of thermometer to use for my bearded dragons cage?
You should never guess at your dragons temps and it is very important to know exactly what the surface temperature is below the basking light, not the air temp. In order to measure it properly a thermometer with a probe or an infrared thermometer should be used.
What is the best substrate to use in the bottom of my bearded dragons cage?
Never, ever use any kind of loose or particle substrate, including calcium sand, crushed walnut, wood chips of any kind, alfalfa pellets, cat litter, etc. with a bearded dragon, hundreds of dragons die each year due to ingestion of these substrates. Not to mention, they are all breeding grounds for harmful bacteria, parasites, fungi, viruses and cannot be kept sanitary. Keeping your dragons cage clean is the number one preventative of sickness and disease. Recommended substrate materials that are easy to keep clean include vinyl flooring, tile, non adhesive shelf liner, reptile carpet or felt type material, news paper, masking paper or paper and cloth towels.
What is the most important thing to look for when buying a bearded dragon?
When you are looking for a bearded dragon to buy you want to make sure it is healthy and active. It's best to be able to pick your dragon out personally, but if you can't be there to do that, you must find a reliable breeder who will communicate with you. You want to make sure it is eating well and isn't too small or skinny, make sure it has no bones protruding above the tail and has good fat stores. Be sure it is basking and pooping daily, you don't want a dragon that sleeps or hides a lot. When looking for a colorful dragon, ask for pictures of the parents so you have an idea how it may turn out as an adult. Ask your breeder lots of questions, including if it comes with a health guarantee, most reputable breeders will give you at least a 30 day guarantee.
When you own a Bearded Dragon, the subject of poop is one that seems to come up with quite some frequency. Everything seems to resolve around it and for good reason! Is it too smelly? Is it too mushy? What is the perfect poo supposed to look like? Healthy dragons have healthy looking poop, and since one of the things they do most frequently is eat, the next most frequent thing they do is poop. Here we will go over healthy poop, non healthy poop, and what you should do about it.
So, what is a healthy poop supposed to look like anyways?
Ok, so first off, what should it look like anyways? Your Beardie's poo should be well formed and have a soft but firm consistency. The texture will vary depending on what was eaten, but usually it has a dark green color with some grain to it. Insects will make it darker and firmer, being more dense with a rough texture. Butternut squash, carrots or other bright vegetables will add some color to it and make it moist, the same as it went in. Certain processed foods, such as Nature Zone Bearded Dragon Bites will make it a bright neon green. The amount or size is very directly related to how much was ingested and it can be relatively large in comparison to your dragon! Remember, if your dragon is not eating with any frequency, then there will be less to expell.
Why is part of it white?
The white part is the urate. Bearded Dragon's bodies have evolved to use water much more efficiently than ours so instead of urinating, they excrete the solid waste and retain the fluid. Urates can be very firm to very runny, typically this depends on the length of time since they last went. The longer it's been, the bigger and harder the urate can be. Urates can also be pinkish in color or partly hard and partly soft. Very hard and chalky urates that are difficult to pass are not a good thing. This typically means that your dragon is not well hydrated or that it has too much calcium in the diet. A urate plug can cause a partial or full blockage for your beardie, so it is important to pay attention to it's bathroom habits to ensure everything is being expelled easily.
So what if it has a lot of liquid around it?
Sometimes your beardie's poop may be accompanied by a body of liquid. If the puddle is mostly clear looking and the rest of the poop looks normal then have no fear! You have a perfectly hydrated dragon that is just expelling the extra liquid that he does not need.
What if it has no form? What if it smells?
Down to the dirty. If your dragons poop looks like a pile of mush, if it smells horrid (now lets be honest, dragon poop smells terrible anyways, however anything stronger than usual), then it's time for a check up at the vet. Loose stool can be a sign of intestinal parasites such as pinworms or coccidia which cause physical damage to the intestinal cells. Do not put off having a fecal check by your vet. The longer you wait, the more damage you could be doing. Dragons don't act different in the early stages of parasite infections, typically the lethargy will come after some time. If caught early enough, then medicating your beardie will be easier and a lot less harsh on their systems.
How often should my Dragon poo?
How often a dragon poops very much depends on how often it eats, how much it eats and how long it basks. It also depends on the dragon's metabolism. All dragon will develop a pattern, some going as often as one to three times per day, while others will only go every two to three days.
My Dragon has parasites! What do I do?
So, you've taken your animal to the vet, and it does it fact turn out to have parasites. No fear! These are common in the Bearded Dragon world and are fairly easy to treat with some patience, persistance and a little OCD. Here are some items we recommend to help your baby overcome those pesky little buggars and get back to having healthy poos soon! Click on the links!
Generic Panacur - For treatment of Gastrointestinal Parasites
Toltrazuril - For treatment of Coccidia
Probiotic Powder - You'll want to replace all that good bacteria that medications can kill off while getting rid of the bad stuff!
1cc Oral Syringes - It's typically better to avoid recontamination by using a fresh syringe for each dose of medication.
Disinfectant - You need to disinfect your entire cage daily to ensure that you kill off all parasites and don't re-infect. Be sure to follow the instructions!
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